Chaco Canyon
Chaco Canyon National Monument was established in 1907 to protect the Great House dwelling, as well as other sites within the surrounding canyon. In 1980, it was expanded to 34,000 acres and named the Chaco Culture National Historical Park (NHP). Then in 1987, it was listed as a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) for the architectural and engineering achievements of the Chacoan people. And because that wasn’t enough, in 2013 Chaco Culture NHP became an International Dark Sky Park at the Gold Tier Level, with 99% of the park being a “natural darkness zone”. I would give this place an Olympic Gold medal and an Emmy if I could, Chaco Culture NHP it is absolutely nothing short of astonishing!
Pueblo Bonito
Do not underestimate the time you will want to spend exploring the canyon, in addition to the lack of resources available to you once you are there. Water is available (24/7) in the visitor center parking lot, but beyond that, you are on your own. The Gallo campground in the canyon is convenient but fills up fast (reservations on recreation.gov) and the closest BLM land for alternative camping is about 40 miles north of the park at Angel Peak Scenic Area. The canyon is adjacent to Navajo Nation reservation land and you are not allowed (and do not want to get caught) camping on this land; therefore, plan ahead or be prepared to get creative. The visitor center has restrooms with flush toilets and sinks, so stop here first! Additional vault toilets are available at both the Kin Klitso and Pueblo Bonito trailheads.
Although many of our wonderings about this sacred canyon will go unanswered, clues suggesting cultural characteristics such as travel and trade were left behind in the form of fabric and furs, pottery shards, and ground tools, in addition to rock art. Clovis and Folsom points found in the canyon date back to the Paleo-Indian people of 9300 BC. The evidence of cultural change transitions through to the Archaic hunters and gatherers, the Basketmakers, and through to the first Pueblo built surface dwelling in 700 AD. Archeologists believe that the canyon was largely depopulated by 1180 AD due to the 50 year drought in the mid-1100s. A century later, 1300 AD, evidence points to a brief reoccupation of the canyon by those who are suggested to have migrated north to Mesa Verde.
Joists, and lintels, and mortar, OH MY! Having spent the majority of my adult life working in the construction industry, I find myself in-awe of the ancient building means and methods reflected in these great dwellings. The majority of the great dwellings are situated on the north side of the canyon and are south facing; therefore, capitalizing on the passive solar energy. Excuse me, someone call the USGBC, I think we need to add a LEED-Platinum Certification to the list of the canyon’s achievements! Deep foundations supporting up to five stories and 800 rooms. An estimated 200,000 Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir timbers hand-carried over 50 miles to be used as floor and ceiling joists, as well as planed for window and door lintels. Five different styles of masonry construction, FIVE!
Chetro Ketl, AD 950-1250s
I chose to divide my time between hiking the Pueblo Alto trail (5 mile loop) and exploring the dwellings accessible via the 9-mile canyon loop road. The Pueblo Alto trailhead can be found adjacent to the Pueblo Del Arroyo parking lot. The start of the trail is rather steep and not friendly to those with a fear of heights or with vertigo, but once you are through the natural passageway (so totally cool!), the remainder of the trail follows the canyon rim and has minimal elevation gain. Pueblo Alto felt much smaller than the ground level dwellings, but this hike pays dividends with its panoramic and ariel views of both Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl. Further, the hike includes views of the ancient regional road system covering 60,000 square miles, and the Jackson Stairway where the roads entered the canyon.
Pueblo Alto Trail
Less recognized, but arguably most impressive are the achievements in astronomical measure and their inclusion into the structural and landscape architecture of the canyon. Several of the great houses were oriented to solar, lunar, stellar, and cardinal directions and are surrounded by astronomical markers. The Solstice Project of 1978 conducted investigations of astronomy throughout the canyon and its surrounding areas concluding the canyon dwellings integrate extremes of both the sun and the moon cycles. The best known astronomical indicators, including the famous “sun dagger”, are located in the observatories at Fajada Butte (which cannot be accessed by visitors). The Chaco Culture NHP hosts an annual Astronomy Festival, bi-annual Star Parties, and other astronomer led evening sky programs providing visitors the opportunity to view the sky through the observatory’s 25'“ Dobsonian telescope, located in the Chaco Observatory next to the visitor center.
Bailey’s Collared Lizard
Came across this little dude on the Pueblo Alto Trail…
He understood the assignment.